Category Archives: Ethics

Interrobangs Retrospective: Our Favorite Posts of the Past Year

Or, in which the Interrobangs kill two birds with one post.

One year anniversaries call for cake!

A year has come and gone, and it hasn’t just been a calendar year, but also the first year of Interrobangs Anonymous. Technically, our first post was on December 21, 2009, but with the hullabaloo of Christmas, Solstice, New Years, and Tuesdays, we postponed our celebrating until now. So here are our favorite posts of 2010/our first year blogging together.

This is how we really act

Style and Self-Image

Tutorials

Resources

Series

Pure Awesomeness

The past year has been so much fun. Thank you for reading, commenting, and being such an amazing community of fun, inspiration, and friends.

Continuing the Discussion of Exploitation in Fashion

(posted by Katie for the lovely Sarah, whose adventures changing the world sometimes don’t include reliable internet access)

a while back our dear katie and wonderful millie put up lists of stores for the ‘yay’ and ‘nay’ piles, based on sustainability, worker treatment, environmental care, and other important matters to necessary consider when making a ‘good’ choice. reading their posts, i was taken back to the first time i saw this video:

watching this, its pretty clear what the message is, and that message will most likely make you uncomfortable (or like me, just break your heart). its hard, very hard, to access the right products and companies sometimes, especially if you find yourself living in a small city in a majority nation, where the notion of ‘ethical’ or even ‘environmental’ has yet to rise to the social surface. sometimes, places in the world are {rightfully} just trying to build their nation up and in that time unfortunate priorities are made.

but small changes, public dialogue, and commitment to pushing for what is unarguably morally right, can and will eventually help shift the way we view our consumption, our trade, and at the very core of it, one another. what a beautiful sign of humanity, to say that we we respect one another too much to make a sister endure long hours, toxic working conditions, and meager wages, just for the sake of having something pretty to wear out dancing.

now, i am no better than anyone else. i know that i am as much of the problem than any other shopper on queen st, and i am by no means pointing fingers or trying to shame anyone. even now i am currently writing this sitting in a dress from h & m. but i am conscious of the fact that i need to change, and i hope that over the next few years my personal choices will be ones that help nourish the world….. and having friends and blogs there to help steer you in the right direction is a fabulous first step ;) it’s hard to pick your battles because, lets face it, it’s a sad minefield out there. it would be easy to say “you cant focus on it all,” but i challenge that. you may not be able to focus all you’ve got on every issue, but you are more than capable of making a few choices each day that can add to one amazing good vibration wave, causing real change even where you don’t expect it.

i encourage you to share this video (on your own blog perhaps?) and view the other videos  in the EXIT project on exploitation at:
http://www.mtvexit.org/video.php?lang=1&vdo_cat=2


lets keep the discussion of ‘yay’ and ‘nay’ piles going. share any tips, ideas, news, information, etc. that you have……..blogs are another great tool adding to this wave, so we might as well use it ;)

all the sunshine rays and happy thoughts to you!
s*

Stores Where I Would / Do Shop

Katie wrote an excellent post the other day about some stores she won’t shop at, because of their lack of ethical practices. To balance that, how about a list of some stores that have good ethical practices?

I’ve noticed that many stores with good ethical practices are either single local stores (or very small local chains) or online, and so while I can name a few stores in various places I’ve lived that sell ethical goods, they’re all locally owned stores, so this is unlikely to be helpful to many of you. I’ve stuck, then, to online stores for this list.

This isn’t intended as a list of places I or any of us endorse — rather, it’s a list of stores I’ve come across that say that they are ethical in some way (usually environmentally, labour-wise, or, optimally, both). If you’ve bought stuff from any of these places, fill us in about your experience in the comments! Obviously this is not an exhaustive list, so if you have somewhere to add to the list (local or otherwise), leave us a comment.

Ethiquette is a Canadian site that has a database of brands that are both environmentally and socially responsible. It’s based in Montreal, so many of the stores listed are in the Montreal area, but it’s worth a look. It has listings for all sorts of goods, not just clothing.

Alternative Apparel is an alternative to American Apparel. Goods are made in certified factories around the globe, and there’s a wide variety of styles.

Econscious is an American company that sells everything from clothes to fitness equipment. Some of it is fairly traded, all of it ecologically conscious, and portions of sales (up to 10%, apparently) go to charity.

People Tree has some lovely designs, and I see it come up a lot on British and European blogs. Their clothes are all fairly traded, but for those of us not in Britain or Europe, shipping’s expensive.

I love the name of Life’s Not Fair, But My Knickers Are. Another British company, but I can’t remember having ever seen another company selling ethical underwear, so it’s worth a mention.

No Sweat Apparel is no longer taking retail orders (though they do still do wholesale, apparently) but they’ve got a huge list of resources about labour ethics and sweatshop free clothing manufacturers.

I have a couple of pairs of footwear from Novacas, and I love them dearly. They’re vegan and union made in Portugal, but are unfortunately hard to find. I’ve also bought a pair from Moo Shoes (who only sell vegan shoes and accessories), and their customer service was good; I’d buy from them again.

Beyond Skin is a British vegan shoe company, who make shoes in the EU. Again, most of the companies I’ve found are based in Britain, making shipping expensive for us in North America.

I’ve found some really nice necklaces, bracelets and scarves at 10,000 Villages. The scarves tend to be expensive, but the jewelry is often quite reasonably priced, and everything in the store is fairly traded. Sometimes they have clothing, too, but not always.

Independent collectives (often run by women) are great ways to directly support the people who make the goods, since you’re buying from the artisans directly. Collectives often teach women in their communities skills to become literate and can help them become financially stable, which is critically important. A few I’ve stumbled across on the internet: Mekong Blue (silk scarves from Cambodia), Global Mamas (all sorts of things from Ghana), Las Otras Hermanas (clothes from Juárez, Mexico). Buying directly from artisans doesn’t have to come from across the world — local artisans are often found at farmer’s markets, or in stores specializing in handmade goods. I’ve found some lovely pieces of jewelry at artisan fairs and street festivals, too — it’s often not all tie dye and children’s clothing!

Lastly, it’s a bit obvious, but Etsy’s full of people who make gorgeous clothes in their living rooms. A few I really like to window-shop: Liza Rietz, Econica, Sandmaiden, Jane Bon Bon, and Ureshii. Etsy’s great for finding plus size and custom-sized stuff too — the last two in particular have large size ranges.

ADDENDUM, July 20th: Rad_in_Brooklyn had a great post on a company doing things right, kindly linked here, and added this listing of vegan, ethical companies. Again, no endorsement intended, just compiling information for those of you interested. Thanks, Rad_in_Brooklyn!

Where I Don’t Shop

Image

The other day I was talking with a colleague and, noticing my love of all things accessory, she asked if I ever shopped at Forever 21, telling me about the great bargins her daughter finds. I replied that since there isn’t a Forever 21 store within about 50 miles of where I live, I hadn’t. That was the polite answer, as she was making polite conversation. The truth is, though, it’s not the distance that stops me from shopping at Forever 21, it’s the company.

A few months ago Millie posted a series on sustainable fashion, part of a larger conversation in the blogosphere. So many people made fantastic arguments about labor rights, pollution, waste, consumption, reuse, supporting small and local businesses, etc. as reasons to be mindful shoppers, and I’d like to add another category for consideration: humanism. I try, to the best of my ability, to shop at stores who have standards of ethics and morals towards everyone they work with that I believe in supporting. Those are the companies I want to help sustain.

I don’t shop at Forever 21 for two main reasons: (1) the company is known to, and has been charged repeatedly, for using sweatshop labor and (2) the company’s founders are known evangelical Christians who have been accused of discriminating against colleagues and employees based on religion.

With the Forever 21 example in mind, here are some other companies I chose not to support because I do not agree with how they treat their colleagues, employees, or customers. One note: these are my opinions, and I’m not sharing to shame anyone or pat anyone on the back. Where you shop is your choice, but I’m a firm believer that information can only help us make better choices.

Continue reading

One Day Without Shoes

Image

In case you didn’t know, today is One Day Without Shoes. I forgot to bring my camera to work, but I’m sitting here, happily researching the terrarium size requirements for a colony of hissing cockroaches, wiggling my bare feet as I type.

Take a moment to think about what life would be like if you didn’t have any shoes to wear. And, if you’re so inclined, buy a pair of Tom’s Shoes. For every pair you buy, they give a pair to a child who needs them. As soon as they start making narrow widths I’ll buy a pair, but for now I need all you normal-width people out there to pick up my slack!

Sustainability in the Closet, Part 2: Thrifting

Second in a four part series. Intro is here, Part 1 on Consumption is here, and future posts can be found using the series: sustainability tag.

Thrifting is officially A Thing, now, which is good and bad. It’s good in that people are reusing and recycling clothing, which reduces waste and the demand for new clothing (assuming that a person who thrifts a shirt is then not buying another shirt on top of the thrifted one). Thrift stores tend to be small, locally owned businesses (with the exception of organizations like the Salvation Army*, Goodwill and Value Village), which I think is a key component to building sustainable societies. Small business are excellent for building community, nurturing local talent and creativity, and are often not directly reliant on a global, capitalist economic environment where only enormous corporations are viable. It keeps money in the community rather than sending it to line already rich businesses coffers, and it fosters a diversity of garments available. Thrift stores are sources of interesting clothing that’s not necessarily trendy at the moment, and as someone who doesn’t like, say, skinny jeans one bit (they look awful and aren’t comfortable on me), this is quite a boon. I’m not someone who follows trends in any way other than realizing that half the women on the bus are wearing XYZ, so apparently it’s fashionable now? I find thrifting much less exasperating than shopping in conventional retail stores, because thrift stores aren’t full of 20 versions of the same shape and style of clothing (which most of the time I find unflattering). It’s cheaper too, and means that I can explore my style without exceeding my student-sized budget. Thrifting encourages my creativity, and gives me a way to hone my skills at altering clothing. I am a big fan for many reasons.

But. (There’s always a but, isn’t there?)

Thrift stores still rely on clothes being made in the first place. The majority of clothes manufactured probably aren’t going to end up in thrift stores, so there’s a certain amount of waste necessary to separate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak, and have enough wheat left to have a viable thrift store supply. This is variable, I know, and isn’t insurmountable, but the rise of fast (ie, disposable) fashion means that while there’s theoretically more grain to sift through to find the wheat, the wheat to chaff ratio is skewing towards chaff. Giving clothes second lives is great, but the clothes have to withstand one lifetime first, which effectively rules out many cheap, trendy clothes. That said, the fashion industry isn’t going anywhere any time soon, so there’s likely to still be a supply of clothing, but if we’re trying to reduce consumption of new goods as much as possible, thrift stores are not a cure-all solution. And while it’s highly unlikely that everyone will get on board to the exclusion of retail shopping, it’s unlikely that it will still work if everyone does.

Plus, as I alluded to in the first post, there’s the question of what happens to the discarded clothing that doesn’t make it to thrift stores in one way or another. There’s a booming industry of the global North exporting its discarded clothes to the global South, which really throws the local economics out of whack. Exported clothing is cheaper than locally made goods, and local businesses suffer. There are plenty of ways in which the global North meddles in the economies (trade regulations, economic subsidies that shut out international trade, political pressures, etc) of the global South, and this is just another specific item in a long list. Sustainability requires stability, and having an economy dependent on a high consumption rate is not, in the long run, stable; having economies dependent to some degree on the waste of a high-consuming economy is even less stable. It’s certainly not like thrifting is primarily fueling the disposal of clothes, but there still needs to be a focus on making clothes that are well made and not disposable in the first place, as well as an internal recycling mechanism for clothes that are still wearable but unwanted by the original owner.

These are all caveats, I think, and not indictments of thrifting. From a sustainability perspective, I think thrifting is very much a net positive, which is why most of the clothes I buy rather than making are thrifted. Sustainability’s not the entire picture of thrifting, though, and I had a whole other section for this post that I realized that it had little to do with sustainability and much more with the politics of thrifting, so I elected to save that for a separate post to keep the focus of this series. Next up is home sewing, and I’m hoping to get that up by the end of the week.

* I mention the Salvation Army partially because I think it’s important to point out their systemic homophobia. I know they do good work helping families in need, but there are plenty of organizations that do that without the bigotry. A little googling will turn up more, but here’s a couple of articles to have a read of:
Wikipedia
The Salvation Army’s Red Kettle of Trouble
The Importance of Not Giving
No Gay Change for the Salvation Army

Sustainability in the Closet, Part 1: Consumption

First in a tentatively four part series. Intro post is here. Future posts can be shown by using the “series: sustainability” tag.

There’s two broad branches to the issue of how to approach sustainability: there’s the idea that by replacing goods, services, and essentially lifestyles (for lack of a better term) with hopefully equivalent things that are more eco-friendly, or we can more fundamentally shift how we consume to consume less, and to make what we do consume more efficient and sustainable. I think the first idea is incredibly shortsighted for an number of reasons, and is unfortunately easier and probably more profitable for more businesses (and thus more popular with more people). Going around saying that we need to more or less completely retool Western society is not a popular position to take. We’re accustomed to a way of life, and aside from the obvious societal inertia, it’s a hard sell to say to the uninitiated that we can’t keep doing business as usual, just with different products.

So, I think that we need to dramatically rework how Western society is constructed, and while I’d love to go into that more*, I suspect many of you aren’t interested, and that’s not entirely the point of this blog or series. It does, however, provide a backdrop for how I consume clothing.

The short answer is, I don’t, but this is not exactly correct or complete. By the standards of many (not all) of my peers, I buy very few new clothes, and the clothes I do buy tend to be things like tank tops and underwear. I probably could make them myself, but it’s either not economically sensible for me or I haven’t tried (though making underwear is on my very long list of things to try, purely for the “I wonder how this works!” aspect of it). I do buy these things from cheap stores, because I can’t justify spending a large amount of money on a knit cotton tube with straps. I wear them long past when they’re intended to be worn, and I chalk a lot of that up to how I do my laundry.
Continue reading

Sustainability in the Closet: Intro

There’s a somewhat on-going discussion about sustainability in fashion on some blogs, and in light of Franca’s excellent first post on it, I thought I’d throw in my two cents. Given my tendency to go on at length (and I very much appreciate those of you who stick around and read to the end!), I think this is going to be a new series.

So, the framework. I try to make my wardrobe mesh with my ethics of consumption, and this boils down to a few main points:

  • I generally avoid buying clothes made by companies I know (or by dint of their prices, can reasonably suspect) flout labour standards. I read labels.
  • The majority of the clothes I buy are second hand.
  • I also make my own clothes, though living in Canada (and being spectacularly unable to knit) this is considerably more practical for summer clothes rather than winter. I’m also having an increasingly limited time to devote to it, though I am trying to make it a priority.
  • As personal preference, I look for clothes and fabric made with natural fibres, though this is certainly not without problems of its own.
  • I try to keep the amount of clothes I buy small, partially because I don’t have a lot of money to work with in the first place, and partially because I just don’t need a huge wardrobe.
  • Whatever clothes I have, I wear the clothes until they fall apart (and then often still keep them for rags or camera socks* or what have you). I alter and/or repair clothing if it’s at all feasible.
  • When I have clothes that don’t fit and can’t reasonably be altered, I give them to my friends. If they don’t want them, or aren’t really worth lugging around when I visit them, they go to the Goodwill.

Let me make it clear that this is about my personal ethics, and I’ve no interest in shoving it down other people’s throats. I’m not the Great Moral Arbiter Who Knows Best For Everyone, and I’ve no intention of acting like it. Conversely, this is not an attempt to hand myself a cookie and say “good for you! you’ve gained some arbitrary moral high ground!” I sometimes get reactions like either of these when I say I’m a vegetarian, and it’s an interesting parallel. I am by no means perfect, and what’s a good decision for me is not necessarily what’s a good decision for someone else; I have much, much more productive ways to use my energy than to judge everyone around me by my moral tape measure. Plus, there’s that whole glass houses adage.

So here’s my plan: I think I’ll split this up into four further posts, to keep each of them to a reasonable length (ha!). Tentatively (and this is subject to change, depending on where the conversation goes — please weigh in!) the posts will discuss:

  • Consumption of fashion
  • Sustainability of thrifting, and other forms of recycling
  • Home sewing and fabrics, and
  • The social impact of (un)sustainable clothing.

I’ll talk about how I approach each aspect, but also how I see that fitting into a larger, societal context. Sustainability is at it’s heart a societal issue, so talking about isolated efforts misses the point and the big picture. There’s way, way more written about this than I can cover, and I’m sure I’ll miss stuff along the way, so, as always, please chime in in the comments. I’m really curious to see how other people approach this issue, and I’m curious to see what resonates with other people.

* I got this trick from my Aunt, who apparently used it to smuggle a camera in to golf tournaments in her purse. Orphan socks make excellent camera (and other small electronic device) holders — they’re squishy enough to give some protection, fold up very small when not in use, and if you have memory sticks or extra batteries or what have you they fit in too. And plus it’s comical.

Winter in the Frozen North

Most of the Interrobangs live in less than tropical climates, but a quick look at the weather forecasts indicates that I live in the coldest (at least this week) by at least 10 degrees.  Having been back to Southern Ontario over the holidays, I suspect I also have the most snow by probably about a half a foot.  It is dreary here, and cold.  Now, my USB cord is still missing in action (or inaction, more accurately) so I can’t actually put any photographic evidence of how I deal with this horrid winter business, but I suspect that there’s room for more than one post on winter dressing.

So, the basics: I have a giant coat, mitts, boots, gloves, hat, and scarf.  The mitts themselves are less than exciting, but wool mitts with lining are crucial.  None of this acrylic stretchy nonsense, and nothing thinner than half an inch.  Same with the hat:  I have a striped toque that makes me look even dorkier than I already do that I inexplicably adore, but I do not adore the subsequent hat hair that I inevitably get.  Five minutes with a toque and my hair is glued to my head for the rest of the day.  So I followed Audi’s advice and got myself a black beret.  I was skeptical, since as much as I love hats, they either look fantastic or awful on me and I thought berets would be in the awful category.  Not so!  I found a classic style with the little stem and everything and it looks fabulous, and it was pretty cheap too.  Again, wool’s essential (but slightly itchy), and while this may be a big fashion faux-pas, but I find the ability to yank it over my ears is crucial, unfashionable or not.

Scarves…. oh how I love scarves.  (Stay tuned for a tour of my scarves once the camera issue is fixed.)  My winter coat is enormous (more on it in a moment), which really limits how huge of a scarf I can fit under it.  Even in the dead of winter, I still wear only a light scarf, but even a thin spring scarf I find is enough to take the edge off the wind, which is all a scarf should nned to do I think. If you need the scarf to keep all of you warm rather than just keeping the wind out, you need a warmer coat!  Bonus points if it’s silk — I find it’s the warmest and most wind-resistant, and plus it’s much a much nicer material than, say, polyester. Just say no to polyester!

Boots are essential but a frustrating topic to me.  I’m a vegetarian, and I’m trying to avoid buying any new leather or suede goods, though I’ll still wear the ones I already have because there’s no point in getting rid of perfectly good clothing unless I don’t wear it anymore for other reasons (fit, style, etc).  The problem is is that finding good stylish boots that aren’t leather is… difficult, to say the least. There’s plenty of stuff to discuss about shoes and boots, so again, stay tuned, there’ll be more posts about that.  I have a pair of (unlined) knee high black boots from Novacas that I love, and a pair of those foil insoles make any pair of shoes more cozy.  Knee socks are great, wool socks help too, but I’ve found that wearing a pair of knee socks over a pair of shorter socks is great for commuting — most of my commute is spent on public transit rather than outside.  The two pairs of socks method is great because once I get to my office, I take off the outer pair (and try to be stealthy about it so my office-mate isn’t put off) and go on my merry way indoors.  I overheat easily, so I’m a big fan of quickly (and socially acceptably!) sheddable layers.

The piece de resistance is my coat.  It’s huge, took me over a year of (very sporadic) work to make, is bright green and white and is easily the warmest coat I’ve had.  It’s wool (notice a theme here?*), but I lined the thick wool on all the pieces with flannel, and this seems to make an enormous difference.  It’s hardly doable for the majority of you who aren’t making your own coats, but if you’re ever inclined, flannel flatlining as well as a coating lining (no nylon or acetate — use the stuff with the fuzzy back that I can never remember the name of) is the way to go.  Also, add a hood even if the pattern doesn’t have it.  Most retail wool coats aren’t warm at all, and I actually don’t recommend them.  If you’re bent on it, have a good look at the wool itself and see have dense the fibres are:  denser material will let less wind through and thus be warmer, but also tends to cost more and is harder to find.  Try to get a coat that is at least mid-thigh length and buttons all the way to the bottom.  My coat buttons all the way down, and I’m pretty sure this is the key to my coat’s warmth. Unfortunately, the vast majority of retail coats have buttons only to the waist or slightly lower.  This post is getting rather long, but perhaps I’ll put up another one in a bit about switching the buttons or adding a zipper to make a coat close better, with the caveat that I’ve never actually done it myself because I just make my coats in the first place.

So, in a long-winded nutshell, that’s my take on winter outerwear.  I’m clearly not the only person who lives in a cold climate who is posting about her wardrobe on the internet, and I haven’t said a peep about what I wear underneath.  This post by The Freelancer shows just how elaborate you can need to be! I suspect that as cold as it is here, it’s colder in Helsinki. Her drawings are gorgeous, too. So, how do you deal with winter?

*  For those of you saying “wool and silk are animal products — why aren’t you avoiding them?”, I’m a vegetarian, not a vegan.  I eat eggs, cheese, and milk, and I have no big issue with wool or silk.  My ethics of consumption are sort of a work in progress, so this may change.  I will certainly talk about it here, because I think there’s a lot of interesting things there that are worth discussing, and there’s an awful lot more to it than just “I don’t eat or wear animals”.