Category Archives: Fashion Thoughts

leave the yoga pants for the studio, you’ll be just fine…trust me

with a few hours left of 2011, i was debating the two outfits i brought to a friends house to get her thoughts on what would look stellar, fab, and city new years appropriate. as she rummaged through her closet, a black, baby doll, light flower design, very ‘sarah’ dress was lightly hanging on its hanger. the love was immediate, prompting my friend not only to loan it out for the night, but as a donation to my ever growing dress collection. i told her ‘hey, i can wear this on my flight back’. A bit of shock and, not awe, but surprise came from her face. A bit of confusion over why I would forgo the common comforts of yoga pants on a plane for something as ‘dressy’.

This reminded me of a recent article I read where Scarlett Johannson listed people in pjs at the airport as one of her pet peeves, something that prompted me to shout ‘yes!’, in enthusiastic agreement.

I can understand the need to be comfortable while flying, trust me. With 31 flights in 2011 alone, ranging from 1 hour to 14, I can respect the fact that economy seats never recline enough for a solid nap, that the toilets will always have wet floors, and that you will inevitably spill some of your veggie pasta on your lap during turbulence.  I used to stick to my fake birks, cargo pants, and loose top to make such journeys, but with more and more travel I’ve found that I actually want to separate from my prior backpacker ways. I have already given a post on this (see sarah’s guide to dressing like a classy broad while traveling) but then I stumbled on the following video by chance and i felt this is an ‘issue’ i need to revisit.

Miss Jenna Marbles, I can respect the fact you want to be comfortable, but hey now, style is style whether your at sea level or peeing 20000+ feet in the air.

But I put the question out to the faithful viewers, what is your go-to airport wear?Do you agree with Miss Marbles, or of the ‘bringing back style to travel’ persuasion?

Looking forward to your replies! Best and blackouts from India*

ps. On my last flight I did wear said new black/flower baby doll dress, black opaque tights,flat mary janes, and a cozy but still stylish black and white cardigan. I was wiping a few tears away, so I didnt think of taking a photo. Next time though!

Handbags, Now and Historically

Isaac Cruikshank (1756–1811) - "Parisian Ladies in their Full Winter Dress for 1800", an over-the-top exaggerated satirical Nov. 24th 1799 caricature print by Isaac Cruikshank, on the excesses of the late-1790s Parisian high Greek look, and the too-diaphanous styles allegedly sometimes worn there.

Earlier in the year I heard about a book following the evolution and history of the handbag. I was intrigued. I was also never able to remember or find out what the name of the book was. Handbags, historically, are intriguing to me. Prior and into the 18th century, handbags were mostly satchels worn inside your clothing. They were akin to underwear. So purses and handbags of today, are a relatively new accessory.

In high school I was always drawn to more utilitarian purses or bags, and never wanted to stand out too much, teens are generally self conscious and I was no different. Looking back I could have made some much better handbag selections. In my second year of university I had a roommate who had a huge handbag selection, triggering me to realize that I too could rock multiple handbags, and they could look awesome too.

I only consciously started looking for the perfect handbag on later shopping excursions with Katie. And there were some beautiful handbags seen on those excursions… So, I find myself looking for a new bag, the search is on, and I am nothing if not discriminating. I actually expect this to take many months.

Do you settle for any handbag, or do you stick to your guns and wait until you find the perfect one? Do you change bags weekly, seasonally, or to go with your outfits?

Want to read more about handbags and how they are truly essential to our existence as women? Read Rebecca Willis’ article Applied Fashion: Handbags, Essentially.

Image source: Wikimedia Commons

FFB: My Partner, My Wardrobe, and I

This month’s Feminist Fashion Bloggers post theme is “Dating, Relationships, and Motherhood.” Since I’m not a mother, I’ve got little to add to the motherhood portion of the theme, but I do have a partner (A.), so I thought I’d write about that.

A. is more or less entirely uninterested it fashion, style, or really much of anything to do with clothes. Obviously he gets dressed every morning and isn’t waltzing around town in his birthday suit, but it’s purely functional for him. Having a partner who’s totally uninterested in something that you (ostensibly) blog about provides some perspective. I don’t think I’d've ever become someone who lives and breathes fashion, but it’s hard to get too wrapped up in it when you’re around someone who’s utterly unconcerned about it.

I’ve noticed a few things about the dynamic, though, and I’m curious if anyone else’s noticed similar things with their partner.

  • I tend to dress down a bit when he’s around. Not that I’m Glamourpuss McGee most of the time (… okay, ever) but I feel obvious when I dress more nattily than usual. When he’s not around, I’m more likely to stick with it for the day and get comfortable feeling obvious (however unobvious I may actually be — it’s not like I’m wearing an evening gown to the mailbox or anything). But when he’s around and dressed casually (as he usually does), I’m conscious of the dichotomy in dress between us, and I often gravitate to less fancy outfits.
  • Relatedly, I’m more conscious of my clothes when he’s around. Maybe it’s a just a familiarity thing, and if I saw one of my friends as consistently as I see/saw A., I’d feel similarly, but I find myself being very aware of my outfit (or more accurately, my level of fance) when he’s around. I think it’s because I value his perception of me, and I worry (almost certainly without cause) that my dressing consciously negatively impacts his opinion of me.
  • Conversely, there’s no pressure to dress a certain way. I could be wearing a potato sack and A.’d still think I looked great. He’s never made comments about wanting me to dress (or not dress) a certain way, and I’d be gobsmacked if he started now. This contradicts the last sentence of the previous point, but that’s gut emotion, and this is evidence-based observation; the two don’t always line up.
  • My sartorial decisions are mine alone. I a bit baffled by people (mostly women, in my experience) who say something along the lines of “I’m wearing this because my [male] partner likes it,” because it seems like an odd power dynamic. It’s often not a two-way dynamic (typically women wear things for their partners rather than the other way around), and it’s a bit too close to reinforcing the “women as ornament” role for my liking. I realize this is a simplistic reading, and perhaps I’ll elaborate on this another time after it’s percolated a bit more.
  • Because I’m restrained in my interest, my interest is focused and thoughtful rather than broad and based on consuming as much as possible. I think carefully about what clothes I buy and why I’m buying them, because I’m conscious that I already have more than I need. A.’s wardrobe is a fraction the size of mine, and mine is, by Western standards, modest. He gets by fine with what he’s got, so I pause before I purchase. If I can’t articulate clearly and quickly why I want something, it stays on the shelf. I’d likely do this anyway, but since i have a clear idea of the size of his wardrobe, it helps crystalize the difference between what I want and what I need.

So, does any of that sound like you? I’m guessing some of you have partners (not necessarily male) who’re uninterested in sartoria — what’s your experience with it?

The Bra Fitting Revolution

It seems like every time there is a discussion about bras it inevitably ends up, “Are you wearing the right size?,” “It’s probably two sizes too big,” “You should get a fitting.” Did Oprah suddenly have an exposé where she found out her bra was two sizes too small? (at least that can’t happen again, I hope.) Or did the bra industry decide that it was time to sell ladies more bras and have then second guess their current bra sizing, going for the money grab.

“8 out of 10 women wear the wrong size bra”

Reflecting back on purchasing my first bra, I do not recall a multitude of fittings, but rather gathering a bunch of bras, trying them on, and going by look and comfort. Does it feel too tight? Does it keep everything in? Does it remain invisible after clothing yourself?

When I got my second bra fitting a few years ago it was revealed I was wearing the wrong size. I went in because I felt that the wire was digging in a bit so I suspected the fit was off, and it had been a year or two since I had my last fitting, so this result was not awe invoking and a choir of angels did not sing and rejoice. The lady told me I was a 32C. But the C size of that store’s brand was simply too big (vanity sizing), and the 32 circumference felt like it was cutting into my ribcage and leaving marks. What?! I went to a larger department store that carried a multitude of the usual bra brand suspects, and found that the C part was fine with most of those bras, but I left the 32 behind, and went for the 34. Bra fitters may not be mystical creatures after all, I pondered. Naturally our body weight is in constant flux, making having a constant ‘perfect’ bra size practically unachievable.

“After two Oprah episodes featuring dramatic “bra interventions” and even a Dateline investigation into the problem, American women are embracing bra fittings.”

On a whim I thought maybe Oprah had started this new wave of bra fitting and misfittings, and it turns out she may have. It seems to have started in November of 2005 and Oprah aptly named it ‘The Bra Revolution‘ featuring two episodes on the subject. These episodes emphasized looking sexy (to some extent) and being bustier than you thought (this being projected as a positive), as opposed to what should be a practical, so some extent, and utilitarian piece of underclothing, with a hint of frilly should the individual desire. Ultimately, free bras were given away and financial profit was gained. Now every lingerie store and department store boast bra fitting services.

Oprah made the procedure sound like something halfway between winning the lottery and discovering your fairy godmother: “Every woman watching, this is going to change your life. Everyone’s talking about it. And I’m revealing a beauty secret that literally performs miracles.”

In conclusion, I do believe Oprah’s promotion of this topic has influence bra fitting and the bra market significantly, and that bra fittings are designed to help find bras and ensure proper fit, and to gain money as a result of bra fitting epiphanies.

Have you had a bra fitting? Did you agree with the results? What’s your take on the bra fitting revolution? For profit? Altruistic? Mysticism?

I will leave you with a National Geographic episode on “The Secret History of the Bra.” Make sure to check out the “Bra Facts” tab!

Hi, I’m Millie, and yes I still blog here!

It’s pretty obvious that I haven’t posted any daily style posts for quite some time, and there’s a couple of reasons for that. Firstly, I got a haircut out of sheer practicality (ie, it got really hot really quickly and I cut all my hair off) and I was, er, less than enthused about the outcome. I am at heart a very practical lady (international orange underpants aside) but apparently I have my moments of vanity as well. On the upside, it’s grown out a bit and I’m feeling more positive about it.

Secondly, and more profoundly, is that I’m increasingly not sure what I bring to the (very stylish) table, metaphorically speaking. I’m not trying to fill a gap in public perception about what a type of lady is like. I generally dress in whatever’s clean and more or lessgoes together, not what will make me have a certain silhouette or emphasize a part of me. I’m not very adventurous or unusual style wise, and it’s not something I find creatively fulfilling in and of itself to any significant degree. I like making clothes, and have finally started doing that again, but I like that as much for the building process as much as the wearing process. I’ve always been at least a bit worried about the consumerism aspect of posting about my clothes, and incidentally any daily style postings I do from now on won’t list any details about where I got the garments.

When a few weeks ago, RK talked about her dilemma about fashion blogging, I found myself nodding along an awful lot (go read her whole post — it’s great). The crux of it, to me, is this:

It felt like I was doing this because…well, I wanted more compliments. Don’t get me wrong, I’m aware that blogging in itself is a bit of a selfish endeavour, no matter how I spin it. But this outfit blogging felt especially selfish, with little merit to the outside world and mostly for self-gratification.

And while some self-gratification is all fine and good, I’m not sure that my desire for it outweighs all the qualms I have about it; I’m not even sure I’ve been finding it gratifying. I take pictures of myself and I look awkward, stilted, plump in some places and stretched out in others, and I don’t recognize the person I see in the mirror in the picture I’ve just taken. I trundle back and forth with the self timer and wind up half an hour later with a bunch of pictures that look nothing like what I think I look like. I’m already very conscious of how my posting pictures of myself, a white, middle class, not thin but not fat either*, lady feeds into a narrative of what constitutes beauty here, and that disconnect between what my clunky old camera sees and what I see just kills any desire I have to talk about my clothes. I’ve done quite a few sets of pictures with the intention of blogging, and my ambition just fizzles when I open the files and my heart sinks.

So I’m not sure where to go from here. I feel like I’ve written this post time and time again over the course of this blog, and I just keep going in circles and never getting anywhere. I don’t want to leave, but I’m not really participating at the moment, and that’s something I want to change. I’ve got lots of things to say about clothes, but as RK observes, those don’t get read as much:

I also noticed that my pageviews went up almost instantly when I posted an outfit photo, more so than with my words.

Maybe I don’t have the style cred to get people to read what I have to say, or maybe people aren’t interested in the first place. I don’t know, but if the ultimate point of this is self-gratification (as cringe-inducing as that is), there’s little point if the gratification part is missing.

Maybe the solution to this is to go back to doing daily style posts, but make a very concerted effort to learn how to take better photographs (or get a better camera?). Maybe it’s to try to learn how to mimic how I think I look for the camera. Maybe it’s to just chuck the daily style part of this and stick to the words, even if no-one reads them. Maybe there’s some other way around this, but I’ve been thinking about this for months and I haven’t come up with anything else. So, if you made it this far (hurray!), do you have any insights? Or photography wizardry?

————
* Though I’m willing to bet there’s people who’d dispute that.

“Normal” Sizes, Fashion School, and the Disconnect Between Designers and The Clothes-Wearing Public

A trio of Scottish women referred to as a “fashion trio” (though I haven’t the faintest idea what that means) have proposed that fashion and design schools should, instead of teaching their students to make clothes at the lowest range of sizes, should use mannequins of size 16-18, which is the “size” of the average British woman.* (Thanks to Mrs. Bossa for sending it around!) Having never gone to fashion school, I have no tangible idea of how sizing is taught: I don’t know if it’s standard to learn on a thin size and then learn how to grade up and down sizes from there, or whether a range of sizes are used throughout the curriculum, or whether different shapes are addressed explicitly (since not all women who ostensibly wear the same size are shaped the same way), and how any of these concerns are approached. If any of you can enlighten me about this, please do! I’m very curious how body diversity is approached in fashion school, even if only on the tall-and-very-slender end of the spectrum.

four plain white cotton mannequins in plastic bags with a small, silver mannequin

Image by annamatic3000 on Flickr (click photo for link)

I think using a more average mannequin to help keep the actual customer (and not the “ideal” customer) as the focus of the garment is a great idea. Of course there are women who wear very thin sizes, but there’s many, many women who don’t, and adjusting the framework to shift the focus from a hyper-idealized imagined customer to someone more average and ordinary creates space for the students to have some really important conversations about bodies, identities, and body diversity. The western fashion industry as a whole has enormous blind spots when it comes to body diversity: the images it puts forth are overwhelmingly of women who are tall, very thin, white, and able-bodied. Models who don’t fit these criteria are often tokenized — like the one black model in an otherwise entirely white runway show. This isn’t right: the fashion industry should mirror the general population, and the general population is not overwhelmingly tall, very thin, white, and able-bodied. Pushing a single, idealized vision of beauty, to the exclusion or tokenisation of any other vision, is ultimately harmful to women’s self perception and the perception of women in society. One of the defences of this dominant image is that fashion is about aspiration and fantasy, but if you (as a person who wears clothes) can’t see yourself in the fantasy, or see yourself deliberately excluded from it, why would you buy into it? Why should you buy into it?

Continue reading

Chelsie’s DIY Endeavors

It is starting to feel like summer, so I’ve decided to start some DIY projects around the house. Here is a selection of what I have in store, and may blog about.

  • 2 table lamps – Painting and new shades, possibly DIY fabric (but not the green tea grow it yourself variety)
  • 1 Armoire – Painting, distressing and adding shelves
  • 2 Canvas chair covers (for a neighbour)
  • Painting the trim in the house (I will not subject anyone but myself to this one)
  • Painting the master bedroom?
  • Construct a bed frame?
  • Lots of thrift and garage sale trips (I do those myself, right?!)

Also, I have been finding it easy to keep up a good style that has made me feel confident and good about myself, but I have been linking it to work, but not always dressing my best on weekends. I think I may have to make an effort to link dressing stylishly to everyday, regardless of going to work. I have found that by dressing up I feel better about myself, and my interactions with others. This summer, I will challenge myself to dressing my best everyday, while still keeping comfort in mind.

Love for Charley Harper*

*No, not Charlie Harper. Shudder. We shall mention that name no more.

This weekend, Brittney posted her new fantastic Charley Harper wall and reminded me just how much I love Charley Harper.

For those of you who don’t know and therefore don’t love Charley Harper yet (don’t worry, you soon will), Harper was a modernist artist famous for his simple, stylized and yet highly accurate illustrations of wildlife. The zoologist in me loves how precisely and perfectly Harper captured the essence of life with as few lines as possible, the fashionista in me loves the rich colors Harper used, and the goofball in me loves how much sass Harper could make everything from a raccoon to a Euglena have.

Most people know Harper for his bird pictures:

But I love Harper for how he took the animals most people don’t adore (grubs, lizards, waterstriders, etc.) and showed how beautiful they are.

I think the only thing better than having Charley Harper on your walls would be to have Charley Harper on your person (in a totally non-dirty way, of course). Design house Celine secured the rights to five of Harper’s prints and incorporated them into their 2009 resort wear collection. Biology and style, such a perfect combination!

The shoes have fish on them!

So what do you think? I’ve seen clothing inspired by Picasso, Monet, Polluck and Mondrian; does it work with Harper’s style? And who knows where I can find those shoes?

FFB: Guest Post on Planet Holiday

This month’s Feminist Fashion Bloggers post is a guest post, and Mrs Bossa of Mrs Bossa Does the Do and I are trading posts on holiday dressing, using this paper (which unfortunately needs a subscription to download) as a starting point.  Be sure to check out the roundup of all the posts at the main FFB site, and without further ado, here’s Mrs Bossa!

*********
Holiday Fashion: your ‘best of’ in a box?

Can your holiday wardrobe give you a new identity? I have to admit: I hate this time of year in fashion magazines. We seem to go straight from bobble hats to bikinis as though Spring doesn’t exist. When I thought more closely about this, I realised – I struggle to make a ‘holiday wardrobe’ fit with my sense of self; I shy away from buying summery clothes and end up being a similar version of my A/W self (albeit more overheated). I’ve noticed a few fashion bloggers talking about rotating their wardrobes, packing away their winter items and bringing their flimsier clothing out to play. But it was when I noticed my mum choosing the items she wanted to buy for a holiday in Nice that it struck me – she wasn’t simply stocking up on some essentials…she was planning her holiday identity.

Before you tell me to put down the piña colada, think about it: aren’t there clothes that you just wouldn’t wear on holiday? Clothes that you would only wear on holiday? Even I would be happy to brave a boob tube in the soaring temperatures of the Mediterranean. But it’s not just the heat – a holiday is a chance to experiment, free from people who judge you. I bought hotpants once, for god’s sake.

See? she looks relaxed. (Now stop looking at her stomach - it's not THE POINT.) Source: photographed from Elle magazine.

‘Planet Holiday’
In their article ‘It’s Like Planet Holiday’, Maura Banim likens holiday wardrobes to a theatrical performance; tanning and waxing are part of the preparation for the role, buying clothes becomes similar to choosing costumes, and a few well-chosen props allow women to “have the confidence that their performance will be successfully executed.” Not that all this is a chore – she discovered that many women see all this not only as a means of enjoyable self-indulgence, but also as a key transitional phase between ‘real life’ and the holiday fantasy. Planning outfits is a key part of this.

Practical, schmactical. She's created an image. Source: http://alittlebitsilly.wordpress.com/2010/06/18/sex-and-the-city-2-the-movie/

From Day to Night:
Fashion magazines always talk about taking your holiday wardrobe ‘from day to night’ – somehow simple vests in multiple colours, the bikinis and the sarongs all form part of a carefree daytime identity (Banim likens this to being part of a ‘chorus line’ instead of being in the limelight). On the other hand, in the evening the ‘performances’ begin. The researchers suggested that holiday evenings gave women the chance to ‘launch’ the best versions of themselves, night after night – many women took a separate outfit for each evening, but they were always their ‘best’ clothes. Self-awareness increased; striking a balance between showing more of the body and looking sexually available was key. I was most intrigued by the idea of groups of women being ‘performance teams’: giving advice on outfits, monitoring any potential clothing mishaps throughout the night and relying on each other to style hair and put on makeup. Says Banim: “co-operation was important in allowing women to pull off a seemingly effortless performance.” I’m sure many of us can relate to that.

A Case for Naturism?
The idea of sunbathing being liberating is an interesting one: many women surveyed felt that body exposure en masse granted everyone some form of anonymity. Not only did it free them from self-consciousness, it also seemed to liberate them from the ‘sexual gaze’: although close to nudity, no-one seemed to feel they were being objectified as they would be in other contexts. At least not by men…

Puts your cellulite fears in perspective, doesn't it? Source: Clipart.

In summary: There are a lot of factors at play as we plan our holiday wardrobes: the transformative power of fashion, the fluidity of identity, the liberation from judgment, the interaction of women-only groups. It seems that packing a suitcase is more than just an arrangement of clothes – it’s our ‘best of’ in a box. And we don’t even have to go abroad: every time I visit my parents I plan my ‘look’ – I’ve been known to do my makeup on the train and quickly swap my flats for heels as I pull into the station. There are some that would argue that many women are constantly ‘performing’ with their bodies and wardrobes, but the style advice, colour choices and even types of fabric in holiday attire all speak of a tantalising kind of freedom.
What goes through your mind when you’re planning your holiday wardrobe?
Do you have a ‘best version’ of yourself?

Recommended reads:
Banim, Maura, Ali Guy, and Kate Gillen. ““It’s Like Planet Holiday”—Women’s Dressed Self-presentation on Holiday.” Fashion Theory 9.4 (2005): 425-43. Art Full Text. Web. 8 May 2011.
Millie’s Take on Modesty

Jeans by Any Other Name…

A few days ago, I overheard a group of girls extolling the virtues of “boyfriend jeans.” While the style’s nothing new, and I won’t argue over the merits of any loose, comfy piece of clothing that comes with plenty of room to accommodate your three-doughnut-baby because the grocery store was selling 4 for $2, I do have a problem with the name.

“Boyfriend Jeans.” Whatever happened to “Loose Fit” or “Relaxed”? They all mean the same thing. Granted, “boyfriend jeans” is hipper sounding than “baggy, misshapen, after-Thanksgiving jeans,” so I understand the idea for a new marketing campaign. However, I don’t understand the idea that a heteronormative, sexist and sizeist name is an acceptable alternative.

You’re wearing boyfriend jeans? Great! You fit the expected female norms of being:

  1. Straight
  2. In a relationship (but not married – these aren’t husband jeans)
  3. Smaller than your boyfriend

I don’t need my denim to be homophobic, sizeist and infantalizing, and I don’t need my clothing to define me with the nomenclature of another gender.

On the tails of some people’s outrage over a little boy with pink toenails, my mind is sucked again into the dichotomy that while it’s not alright to define a man through female signatures, it’s perfectly acceptable to define a woman through male signatures. So no “boyfriend jeans” for me. I’ll call them what they really are, “baggy, saggy diaper bum jeans,” instead.

As usual, Stephen Colbert said it best.

When a girl wears men’s clothes, they’re boyfriend jeans. But when a man dresses up in his girlfriend’s clothes, suddenly she’s his ex-girlfriend.

And while we’re at it, no more:

  • Hooker boots
  • Wife beaters
  • Skinny jeans

What clothing monikers do you want to see done away with?

P.S. I’m not the only one with these thoughts lately. Pop over to Tall Girl Blogging and read Allison’s thoughts and the awesome comments and jesse.anne.o for her take on “boyfriend clothes.”

Seeing “Pink”

An uber-sick computer (damn you, “Vista Home Security 2011″!) kept me from posting this earlier, but I’m sure most of you have heard about the ridiculous and unfounded kerfuffle over the J Crew add featuring a little boy with hot pink toenails.

Can people just ignore the pink polish for a minute and focus on how happy these two look together?

The image has sparked a debate (although, if it had been glitter polish it would have “sparkled” a debate) over whether the add and the act encourages “transgendered identity.” Really? Nail polish as gender propaganda? Let’s see what Fox News, pantheon of partisan-ism, has to say:

Encouraging the choosing of gender identity, rather than suggesting our children become comfortable with the ones they got at birth, can throw our species into real psychological turmoil—not to mention crowding operating rooms with procedures to grotesquely amputate body parts? Why not make race the next frontier? What would be so wrong with people deciding to tattoo themselves dark brown and claim African-American heritage? Why not bleach the skin of others so they can play-act as Caucasians? – Keith Ablow, Fox News

Why are we having a conversation about pink nail polish, people? This topic is eliciting another giant squid of anger in me, which is no way to start a Monday, so I’ll leave you with three things:

  1. The Feminist Fatale wrote a fantastic piece on the subject
  2. There’s a call for people to paint their own nails pink today in support of gender identity. I don’t own any nail polish, but I do have a highlighter…
  3. As always, Jon Stewart rocks. Twice.

Katie Daily Style – Shorty McMullet

  • Plaid shirt – thrifted
  • Denim pencil skirt – thrifted
  • Lace necklace – self-made
  • Leather belt – thrifted
  • Shoes – Hush Puppies

I find it ironic that, given my super long legs, arms and canines (Vampire Katie: just add glitter), my torso is as short as my attention span when people start talking about their cats.

As a short-waisted gal, I have “rules.” I prefer to wear my pants and skirts on my hips. I tend not to tuck in shirts. I wear longer shirts that go down over my hips, thus extending the visual line of my torso. Today I broke with those rules and…gasp…tucked in my shirt! Sort of… I couldn’t actually bring myself to tuck the whole shirt in, and so compromised with the “business in the front, party in the back” approach. I’m wearing the mullet of shirt tucks and now feel a strong desire to watch giant trucks squish little cars.

However, can an actual mullet do this when a sudden tornado attacks your porch?

I didn’t think so.

It felt good to be a rule breaker today (next up, cutting those tags off my mattress!) and the world didn’t come to an end because I tucked(ish) in my shirt. Yet.

Is anyone else a dedicated non-tucker? What rules do you swear by/what rules have you broken?

Femminism and the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire

Today is the 100th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire. Not only was the fire a horrific and preventable event, unnecessarily taking the lives of 146 women, but its story plays an important role in the history of feminism, worker’s rights, and women’s rights.

The Shirtwaist

The Shirtwaist

The shirtwaist was a woman’s button-down blouse, modeled on the shape of a man’s tailored shirt with a turn-over collar and buttons down the front. The pattern is commonplace today (and also very common in many vintage garments), but at the beginning of the 20th century it presented the opportunity for a small revolution in the lives of women, and every modern woman had one.

Before the shirtwaist, women’s shirts were only one of multiple articles of clothing that impeded women. Full skirts, heeled boots, corsets, and dresses and shirts that fastened with dozens of tiny buttons (often up the back) not only hampered women’s movement, but their ability to even dress themselves. Shirtwaists, worn tucked into a skirt and topped with a jacket, were easy to put on (no assistance required), easy to wear, and easier to replace than an entire dress. Shirtwaists could also be purchased ready-made, freeing up time that would otherwise be spent sewing.

Shirtwaists also looked masculine. The style echoed the appearance of a man’s button-down shirt, and as more women entered the workforce, being able to wear a “modified men’s suit” helped women project a sense of skill and competence.

However, while the shirtwaist was an indication of increased freedom and autonomy for some women it was a symbol of oppression for others.

The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory

Developed during the height of the industrial revolution, shirtwaists were produced in factories with sweatshop conditions: no safety regulations, no labor protection, and no course of action for change. Mainly staffed by women and children who worked 14 hour days and had to pay for the supplies they used, these factories had poor ventilation, bad lighting, and exits that were often locked so that workers could not leave their stations.

Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Worker

In 1909, female garment workers went on strike against several manufactures, including the Triangle Shirtwaist Company, to demand better working conditions.

Triangle Shirtwaist Factory workers preparing to strike

It’s estimated that over 30,000 workers, mainly women, marched for their rights, even as they were attacked by hired thugs, prostitutes and policemen. By today’s standards, what the workers were asking for was nothing: a 52-hour work week, four paid holidays/year, the ability to unionize, not having to pay for their tools and materials, wage negotiations, and fire safety regulations. Many companies agreed to settle with the strikers; Triangle Shirtwaist did not.

On March 25, 1911, one dropped match caused the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory to catch on fire.


The Fire

The workers, mostly young Italian and Jewish immigrants, tried to escape, but doors were either locked or opened into the room against the panicked crowd. Women began descending the fire escapes but were killed as the structure collapsed beneath them. Firemen arrived, but their ladders were too short to reach the source of the fire and they stood with pedestrians, watching as women jumped out of windows and listening to the screams of those trapped inside.

Only thirty minutes after the fire began, 146 people were dead – some so badly burned that they were unidentifiable.

The 10th Floor of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory after the fire

The temporary morgue set up so that family members could identify the victims of the fire

But good did come out of the tragedy. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire was the principle catalyst for factory reform in the United States, reform that was spearheaded and championed by women and created systems in which women were safer.

The outrage of factory reformists and labor unions, coupled with the support of the public, led New York to enact legislation to protect the welfare of all factory workers. The state system soon became the model for national legislation.

A shirtwaist pattern, embroidered with the names of the 146 victims of the fire

PBS’s American Experience produced a beautiful documentary on the fire and its workers. Watch it here.

Thoughts on feminism weave themselves throughout this story. An article of clothing that represented freedom for some women was a shackle for others, and turned into a death sentence for 146 too many. But out of the tragedy came reform that would help all women. Some history to think about the next time you wear a button-down shirt.

Full disclosure: The idea for this post was inspired by a fantastic post a colleague wrote on the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire from a museum point of view. I tip my hat to her.

Which Artist Are You?

In a new campaign, lingerie company Triumph is doing away with the old fruit designations for body shapes: “apple,” “pear,” “banana,” “pineapple,” etc. and encouraging women to think of their body types in the celebratory terms of famous artists.

The new shapes are:

  1. Da Vinci: Classic lines, straight up and down, an elegant form
  2. Rubens: Well-proportioned and weight around the midsection
  3. Botticelli: Bottom heavy, bigger around the hips and bottom than the bust region
  4. Raphael: Bigger up top with broad shoulders and/or buxom bust and a comparatively smaller waist and hips
  5. Matisse: Narrow shoulders and hips, a wider midriff and some weight in the legs
  6. Rembrandt: A smaller waist with a fuller bust and bottom.

By the company’s description, I’m somewhere between a Rubens and an Rembrandt (Rubrandt?).

While I appreciate efforts to use positive language to talk about bodies, and the women painted by those artists are unarguably beautiful, I’m frustrated at this campaign. Because as soon as you click on your new, artistic body type, Triumph goes to great length to tell you how to use undergarments and clothing to obscure your body’s natural features and create the classic hourglass appearance. You were a Matisse? Not for long!

Granted, Triumph is in the business of underwear and body shapers, so they have a vested interest in encouraging you to alter your appearance. But wouldn’t it have been amazing if the new artistic body types was the foundation for a campaign on celebrating and accepting the female form just as it is, instead of another way to get us to buy girdles?

And what does it mean that I really wish I was a Klee?

Paul Klee's Angelus Novus

What do you think of this campaign? Do you see your own body shape in the options listed? Does having a comparison to the women in famous paintings make you feel better about your body shape?

Oscar Lobster (Lobscar?)

Because I plan on spending the evening watching the Oscars while simultaneously taking down my Christmas Tree (probably) and cleaning the living room (maybe), I’m wearing something quite similar to this:

HOWEVER, given my never-ending love for all clothing marine-themed (see here, here, here and here), I’d much rather be wearing this:

Rodnick Band

Ah well, maybe next year.

On Marthettes, and What They Tell Us About Modern Femininity

Last December, Jezebel ran a post about bloggers who seem to have perfect, immaculately stylish lives – the “Marthettes” of the blogging world. Sal at Already Pretty shared her thoughts on the subject, refuting the idea that these picture-perfect images tell the whole story of the blogger. While I don’t disagree with Sal’s main point, I don’t think the story ends there.

It’s true that blogging, like any other single source of documentation, is by nature curated and edited, and what we on the other side of the computer screen see as a cohesive image is by no means a complete picture. However, “Marthette” bloggers, and the response to them, can tell us a lot about a dominant construction of femininity, and that is a point I see absent from this discussion.

These “Martha Blogs” (I don’t see the point is using the term “Marthette” – “Martha” is already a feminine term, so adding the diminutive “ette” on the ends seems unnecessary and somewhat condescending) cultivate very tidy, effortlessly sophisticated, complete lifestyles illustrated by soft focus, perfectly lit photographs with nary a hair out of place. Prettiness is central: a pretty woman wearing pretty clothing in a pretty house (or pretty outdoor location) documented by lots of very pretty pictures, handfuls at a time. The bloggers thrift extensively, sew/knit/craft/decorate/cook, never breaking this cultivated image. A crude and generalized definition, perhaps, but you know the type.

On one level, there’s not anything wrong with being a Martha blogger. If that’s your thing, go for it. My goal isn’t to accuse or judge, but to rather think about how the popularity of these blogs and the positive and negative reactions they elicity fits into a narrative of what it means to be a (predominantly) Western woman.

Martha blogs, like many other blogs, often run on unpaid women’s labour, and talk about traditionally feminine-coded topics to a strongly female audience. On the surface, they strongly reinforce a very traditional model of femininity, generated with others’ enjoyment at the expensive of the woman and distinct definitions of what is “pretty.” Overwhelming prettiness is not, at first glance, subversive, but there’s a strong and potentially destructive tension at play. “Prettiness” is often read as implying shallowness and empty headed-ness, and while we know that’s a false correlation, many women are uncomfortable claiming the title as their own.

But while the surfaces of these blogs are achingly pretty and run parallel to an idea of traditional femininity, there is also content that runs perpendicular to those same ideas. Lots of Martha blogs are snappily written by smart, independent women, existing against the trope of traditional feminity. Many women have turned their blogs into businesses. Martha blogs document how women are finding ways to reject consumer culture, running strongly counter to modern feminity. And the fact that this corner of the internet is so overwhelmingly populated by women means that this is very much a conversation between women about how craft an image and a lifestyle of their own. It’s not “I made this home for my family” so much as it is “I made this for myself, and I will share it with my family and my readers.” This act alone re-centers traditional feminine identities, giving the idea of the woman dominance rather than subservience.

Part of that result, I think, is due to the reflexive nature of blogging itself. At heart, blogging is about the blogger, and no matter how she tries to focus on the external object, the act is by nature an extension of herself. It’s difficult to erase the self in blogging, and by taking to the blogs to talk about clothing and cooking and decorating, we are all still talking about ourselves. It’s easy to point out and poke fun at the self-involved nature of blogging, but men’s self-involved actions have been an accepted part of the public sphere for centuries. It’s time to do more acknowledging and validating of this female introspection, and reclaiming traditional feminity on your own terms is a way to work towards that.

However, how much can traditional femininity be reclaimed on your own terms? How much of the image you curate for public consumption is informed by cultural standard versus your own authenticity? How much of blogging (like any public image) is pure performance? And when that performance lines up tidily with a traditional gender role, can it still be subversive?

I think it can, but I think it takes conscious effort on the part of the blogger. It’s easy to edit out all the flaws and all the subversion and present those polished images that conform to a cultural standard of femininity that will, in general, be more accepted and understood than images which challenge the standard of femininity. The Martha blogs tread a fine line here, since they conform closely to a standard femininity, even if on closer inspection they are challenging traditional gender roles.

The subtitle of this post is “and what they tell us about modern femininity.” My discussion so far has expressed this idea in terms of traditional feminity, and that is not an oversight.  I think the popularity of Martha blogs is the example of traditional femininity in a modern setting they present: the blogs have their (perfectly baked and iced) cake and eat it too. They have all the soft focus prettiness of traditional femininity, without all the enforced housewifery and extremely limited social, political and gender roles. Martha blogs show a model of femininity where nothing (and therefore no one) has to be rejected.

Publicly going against social norms is difficult, and as much progress as we’ve made in expanding women’s social roles in the past decades, we’re nowhere near gender parity in terms of defining “women’s work” and  “men’s work.” The Martha blogs are aspirational, especially to a generation of women who, as Courtney Martin succinctly put it (I paraphrase) “were told ‘you can do anything’ and heard ‘you have to do everything.’”  Martha blogs show women who have everything in order, including fulfilling careers, meaningful social lives, and an immaculate image of femininity, and I think their popularity (and the polarizing response that they sometimes get, especially from women who feel overwhelmed by the completeness of the image) says a lot about how closely modern Western femininity hews to traditional Western femininity.

Before I finish this off, I need to talk about how inaccessible the ideal image of the Martha blogs is to many women. The traditional image of femininity is very much a white, middle- to upper-class femininity, and it’s enduring popularity is alienating to all of women for whom this immaculate life is out of reach. Someone in the Jezebel thread mentioned how these women shop in thrift stores because they can, not because they have to, and that dramatically alters their relationship to that sphere and the others who inhabit it. It’s not that Martha bloggers uniformly have immense resources — lots of them are forthright about frugality and working within their means, and thrifting provides a way to acquires non-necessities without breaking the bank. But it’s unsurprising that the majority of Martha bloggers I’ve come across (and I spent an afternoon blogroll hopping to get a sense of this) are white and seemingly reasonably well off. Choosing to make goods takes time and resources that working class women often don’t have, and making goods for idle consumption (as opposed to sheer practicality) without pay is a solidly middle class luxury. It’s difficult to dovetail with an image of femininity when the cultural image of femininity excludes you, and working class women and women of colour are not usually a part of the Western image of traditional femininity so stuck in the 1950′s.

I’m hoping that blogging, and by extension the publication of images of individuals, continues to bend the perception of femininity. Martha blogs, and other blogs centred on traditionally feminine topics, walk a fine line between subversion and submission, and their continued existence and increasing popularity means that there’s lots of material to keep talking about. Blogs are snapshots of individuals, and are a great lens through which to analyze what it means to be a woman today.

 

 

Style is a Crystalization…

Style is a crystallization, a process of continuing growth. – Bruce Lee

From Bruce Lee: The Lost Interview, 1971.

The Glam, The Glitz, The Jillabeeya

There are few places I have been with a more skewed sense of reality than Dubai. From springs and green grass in the desert, to islands built in the sea, basically this is a place where limits only exist when the money has run out. But there is a beauty here. The newest buildings that tickle your mind with creativity, the perfectly turquoise waters that are warmly inviting but cool to touch, and the sand hills that match the camels silhouette. But for myself , one of the most beautiful sites to see in Dubai are the women who make up the small, but regal, Emirati population. Their style and clothes are like none I have ever seen elsewhere, a mix of both religious tradition and modern creativity. Now, there is a disclaimer here; I am no expert on this world of dress, and I am no expert on the religion of Islam. This is simply my general surveillance out of my times spent in Dubai, and of course, could never apply to each and every woman living in the UAE. What this piece is intended to be, is a loving observation (and slight jealousy) of how the Emirati women epitomize glamour, beauty, and class. So pack your camel milk, wrap up your dates, and float with me on a cloud of hubbly bubbly into a small but far from humble world in the middle of the desert…..

First you have to start with the abaya. This long black cloak drapes generously to the ground, with at least a few inches left to glide along the floor. The cloak is wide enough to hide any hint of a persons shape, but don’t let this fool you into thinking it is unflattering. If anything, this extra fabric literally flows around the women, giving off an air of mystique and curiosity that they are literally floating by you. Depending on the occasion or time of day, the abaya will be laced with embroidery, jewels, fabric or sequins. That’s not to say they whipped out the be-dazzler that morning, though nothing is wrong with a be-dazzler. The quality of these embellishments can be seen miles away, and the intricacy, colour, and designs are one way of taking a simple concept of clothing, a black robe, and making it that persons own (as any style lover does).

black abaya with stars

Details of the abaya, this one embracing some twilight love

pleated bell sleeve on black abaya with crystal embellishments

More details, how much do you love these sleeves?

Secondly, you find the shaila or hejjab, the head scarf that covers the hair as per tradition. If the abaya has an embellishment, shaila will match it like an 80’s child’s shorts will match their scrunchie. It will be whirled up and set upon what I can only assume is a hair bun, to achieve a height at least a few inches above the head. Whenever I see the height of the shailas, I think to how I like to tease my hair to create body. So I suppose this method is what can been seen as the Emirati’s version of ‘oomph’. Also, while some women who adorn a hejjab will tuck in all their hair, Emirati women will leave a little bang peaking out, revealing their jet black hair. Oh, my jealousy continues!

woman wearing a black abaya with golden trim

Golden vision

 

woman wearing embellished shaila

Oomph-age!

Thirdly, because style goes beyond clothing, you’ve got to note the accessories! These are essential in completing the look, and again can add creativity and fashion to what can otherwise be a very simple look. Watches, bracelets, handbags, sunglasses and the shoes; these are blinged out and catch your eye like a fish on a hook. I don’t follow ‘high’ fashion by any means, so I cannot tell you if these are the latest Channel bags or Tiffany tennis bracelets. But I have heard that they likely come from the most famous fashion houses, and by all means they look as they could be. Its another element to the Emirati style that is not to be missed.

woman in black abaya with many accesories

Perfect example: belt, handbag, earrings, sunglasses, and phone. Its all there and all necessary.

three women in black abayas with sunglasses and large purses

Speaks for itself.

Finally, and this is something I note with my Arab relatives as well as Emirati women, is the makeup. Unashamedly bold and flawless. The half inch black eye liner, rouge stroked cheek, and ruby lips put the final touches to an look that is alluring, classical, modern, traditional, extravagant, and unique.

woman with black eyeliner and hot pink faux fur wrap

Note how the lips match perfectly with the "fur".

woman with blue and pink eyeshadow

I love the rainbow effect here, the colour is amazing.

But enough talk, more photos to further showcase the glitz and glam that is the Emirati style….

woman wearing white embellished black abaya

woman wearing black abaya with multicoloured scarf

woman wearing black abaya with embellished teardrops

woman wearing a silver and red abaya

Millie’s Mountainous Ponderings

January is always a rotten month, what with being on the other side of holidays, with the perpetual grey, bleary sky, still not much light and more than a little bit of cold. This year was rotten for me for a few reasons that The Internet At Large needs to know about; it was a good day when I put on proper pants, let alone made interesting outfits, and as such I felt I had nothing to contribute here.

And then February hit, and I gave a presentation which went fantastically well, then hopped on a plane and went here…

waterfront railing in geneva

streetscape of apartments and cars in geneva

view of Mont Blanc from facing ridge

view from top of Mont Blanc after cable car ride up the mountain

… and thought about things. Lest you think that I have such quantities of disposable income that I can flit off to Geneva and then one of the really famous bits of the French Alps (that’s Mont Blanc up there) for a week to think about blogging, let me burst your bubble; I went to the Alps for a conference and Geneva was the closest major airport. But since there was free time in the afternoons, one afternoon I walked into the woods, sat under a tree, and thought about life, the universe, and everything.

Continue reading

T-Shirt Travels: The Story of how Second-Hand Clothing Ends Up in Africa

Via the ever-thoughtful and interesting Rebekah of Jaunty Dame and her mama (Thanks, Mama Jaunty!),  T-Shirt Travels is the story of what happens to all the clothing given away to charity that doesn’t end up in the op-shops.

Many of us are passionate thrifters who believe in reusing and recycling clothing. But that same clothing is a symptom of much larger problems of economic policy, heath care, education and human rights in countries like Zambia. While charity clothing is not the source of the problems, it is a compounding factor and it’s important we know as much of the story as we can.

Fashion is…Curation

Pop on over to Between Laundry Days and check out the guest-post I contributed to Clare’s “Fashion is…” series on the role of fashion as a curatorial power.

Although, I’m assuming that Clare’s is the first blog you read every morning, and you’ve already seen it. And if you haven’t, please write out 100 times:

I will not make foolish blog reading decisions in the future.

Thanks again, Clare. It was a blast!

Interrobangs Retrospective: Our Favorite Posts of the Past Year

Or, in which the Interrobangs kill two birds with one post.

One year anniversaries call for cake!

A year has come and gone, and it hasn’t just been a calendar year, but also the first year of Interrobangs Anonymous. Technically, our first post was on December 21, 2009, but with the hullabaloo of Christmas, Solstice, New Years, and Tuesdays, we postponed our celebrating until now. So here are our favorite posts of 2010/our first year blogging together.

This is how we really act

Style and Self-Image

Tutorials

Resources

Series

Pure Awesomeness

The past year has been so much fun. Thank you for reading, commenting, and being such an amazing community of fun, inspiration, and friends.

Vague, But in Need of Ideas

Sooooo….

Let’s say I need to dress nicely next week. Say, for an interview. Or maybe a bar mitzvah. But probably an interview. I’m not saying that I am going on an interview, but let’s say that I’m saying that I am even though I’m not saying that I am. Follow so far?

What should I wear on said hypothetical, but not, but really, but not, interview? Given that I have never been known for being a full suit type of gal and button-down shirts and I do not get along, I’m trying to think of alternatives that are professional, nice looking, but if all possible still feel slightly like pajamas yet don’t look like pajamas. Even though these pajamas are sort of awesome.

They have hoods! And feet! They're hoody and footy!

But, I digress from something that didn’t really have a clear focus to begin with. So, to recap, I am going to be playing with interview outfit pairings this weekend, and welcome all advice and suggestions, both real and imaginary. But be sure to leave the imaginary stuff in the comments, too, just so I don’t miss it.

As a starting point for this game of dress-up via the Academichics, I like A’s two outfits here and E’s first outfit here.

G.S.L. Anonymous

Ahem. My name is Katie, and I’m a G.S.L.: Grey Sweater Lover. As evident here, here, here, here and here, I have a bit of a problem when it comes to saying no to anything grey and in sweater form – I just can’t quit them. As I recently mentioned, I currently own six. So what’s the last thing I need?

This!

Lauren Conrad Rosette Sweater

The photo doesn’t do it justice: it’s like a fancy sweatshirt, perfect hip length, 3/4 dolman sleeves, a floral embellishment that’s not annoying, and boy do I look cute in it. Just to be clear, I didn’t buy it. I wanted to (and I had a coupon), but I didn’t. After all, six is probably enough, right? Although, it also comes in burgundy…

Is there a color or style of clothing that you find yourself buying again and again?

Catfish?

So, I think I want a sweater like this one:

But some people think these cardigans make you look like a catfish. So I’m torn.

Obviously I’m not opposed to looking like an aquatic organism (Exhibit A, Exhibit B), but am I ready to add catfish to the list?

What say ye?